When people ask me about traveling to London and the Cotswolds with Atlas Adventures, I have to resist the urge to gush. Instead, I have offered up one very enthusiastic word: GREAT. Great experiences, great people, great energy. Scroll down for everything we did — and everything I wore — on this very memorable group trip.
This six-night visit was the ideal mix of city and country. Our itinerary was a delicious a cocktail of royal history, indulgent shopping, leisurely strolls and, in the case of Highclere Castle, settings straight out of a movie. My personal highlight was our visit to Highgrove — a tour of King Charles III’s private gardens and a special lunch on the estate. The Atlas team worked hard to make this divine afternoon happen and I am extremely grateful.
As for fashion, a disclaimer: I was unafraid to pack as much as I needed, far more than I usually would. Great outfits, I told my kids, make these trips even more fun for mom. My goal this year was to match the vibe of each location. I brought a range of choices, from tailored separates to autumnal florals. My favorite coats, which are too often secluded in a closet in Southern California, enjoyed the trip immensely. (If you want to jump straight to the links, I’ve rounded those up here.)
Interested in joining a trip like this in the future? Please fill out this Google form. No obligation whatsoever, only the promise that you will be the first to know if I do this again.
Questions for me about this trip (or what I packed)? Pop them in the comments of this newsletter, I am happy to answer whatever I can.
One more note: I had intended to send this out awhile back, but have been deep in covering the Prince Andrew scandal. More to come on that front.
Today, however, felt like the perfect time to reflect on this trip. It is the 21st anniversary of my mother’s passing. She had such high hopes for me and my sisters to live full lives, and we all are! What a blessing that is.
Much gratitude to Whitney, Lucy, Yasmine, and the team at Atlas Adventures, who worked very hard on our behalf and covered the cost of my trip as well as compensated me for my time. And thank you to Victoria Metaxas in London and Courtney Louise Photography in the Cotswolds, two wonderful photographers I hired to document this trip for me. Most of the images below are theirs! With the occasional iPhone shot of mine thrown in. :)
🫶 ICYMI: I snuck a few moments to chat with many of the people in our group about why they decided to join us, as well as what they packed. Their words of encouragement are not to be missed! Click below for a gem of a newsletter.
This newsletter will very likely get cut off in your inbox. Click here to read it in full.
My London + Cotswolds Travel Diary
(Please note: I use affiliate links, which means if you purchase something below I may earn a small commission at no cost to you. Thank you for your support of So Many Thoughts!)
DAY 1
Arrival in London
Let the fun begin! My secret to beating jetlag? A blow dry — it’s the perfect refresh. By now, I have a go-to salon, right near the Mayfair Hotel where Atlas likes to stay. (Shoutout to Duck & Dry, for those visiting London.) I asked for the “Vintage Kate Middleton,” the full-curl bouncy blowout that the princess sported early in her royal tenure. Then me and my hair met the delightful Victoria Metaxas for a few arrival photos. Victoria is a member of the Atlas team but gamely agreed to return to her previous life as a photographer to help me document the London portion of our trip. I am so grateful! We braved the crowds by Big Ben and the London Eye, then walked over to Horse Guards Parade.
What I wore and why: I was so excited to take my new Anine Bing coat out for a spin. I bought this after seeing it on Meghan in season 2 of her Netflix show. The slouchy cashmere was the perfect layering piece for London. I found myself reaching for it throughout my trip. To keep the color scheme with Big Ben (or, her official — and my preferred — name, The Elizabeth Tower), I opted for this pie crust collar blouse, wide-leg darker jeans and my new Strathberry bag, which is small but mighty. Rounding out the look were the new Gucci loafers I bought for the trip.
Welcome drinks and dinner at the Ivy
Time to meet the ladies! Second Trip Elizabeth, as I called myself lol, was far less nervous and much more excited, knowing all the fun we had in store. Still! Our group was bigger this time, a sold-out crew of 21, so I had just a few jitters as I walked in to say hello. My favorite ice breaker was hearing why everyone wanted to come on this trip — many laughs, a few tears, and smiles all around. After drinks at our hotel, the Mayfair Townhouse, we made our way to dinner at the Ivy Soho. The private room there is high on vibes, with a gorgeous table and delicious food to ease into our conversations.
What I wore and why: For this opening moment, I wanted something that was familiar — royally / fashionably speaking. This Veronica Beard vest suit, which Meghan wore on a visit to Colombia, is a favorite. I was worried it might be too chilly but it proved just the perfect piece for this warm autumn night. I topped it off with my Queen Elizabeth II Machin scarf, sold at Buckingham Palace during her Platinum Jubilee, and my go-to Marion Parke blush heels. (I worked harder this time to take care of my feet, as last year blisters got the better of me. Marion makes the most comfortable shoes!)
DAY 2
‘The Edwardians: Age of Elegance’ exhibition at the King’s Gallery
A surprise highlight! I had requested we add The Edwardians: Age of Elegance to the itinerary because I wanted to see Queen Alexandra’s coronation gown. It’s a stunning piece to see up close, especially displayed as it is with a large portrait of Alexandra (you can see the ways in which the metallic thread has tarnished).
What I hadn’t anticipated were the tiaras on display — including the late Queen Elizabeth II’s favorite, the Girls of Great Britain and Ireland. Tucked in a corner, I may or may not have squealed when I first clocked it. The exhibition is on through November, highly recommend catching it if you can.
What I wore and why: Cognizant of the colorful rooms in the King’s Gallery and the opulent pieces on display, I stuck to neutrals for my own clothing. This is the coziest cashmere sweater from Banana Republic, and I surprised myself by how much I liked these ivory trousers. The patch pockets on the front give them a utilitarian feel, no? I wore my Chanel necklace from Susan Caplan, knowing I would see her in the afternoon, and the most comfortable metallic flats from Margaux (the squared off toe here makes this style for me). My trusty tan crossbody from Jason Wu, a closet staple since 2017, held everything I needed.
Tea at the Goring with Susan Caplan
A highlight of last year’s trip was a visit to the studio of my dear friend, the celebrated vintage jewelry designer Susan Caplan. We leveled up this year, with Susan graciously bringing her pieces to tea at the Goring Hotel. It’s a familiar spot for royal watchers, the hotel where where Kate and her family famously spent the night before the royal wedding in 2011 (!). While we sipped champagne, Susan shared the story of how she started and grew her business, including supplying jewelry for The Crown, as well as what it has meant to have the Princess of Wales wear her pieces. With her daughter Gemma, Susan and her excellent team set up a gorgeous display for us to shop. I couldn’t resist buying a five-strand vintage faux pearl necklace just like the one Kate has worn.
What I wore and why: Although I had packed a lovely dress from my closet to wear to tea, I found myself in the Hobbs store on Regent Street eyeing the new arrivals. I adore this brand and know too well that it’s less expensive in London. This dress is a dream, one of those pieces that fit perfectly and moved beautifully. What’s more, the silk is such that it did not require any steaming whatsoever. I had seen pictures of our private room and the Goring and knew it would be mostly ivory; the navy was a welcome contrast. Plus, the flowers felt suitably autumnal. Paired with fun, easy-on-the-feet flats from Larroudé, I added my first Susan Caplan purchase — earrings from the Crown, worn by Imelda Staunton playing the queen during the scene of her “annus horribilis” speech — and then easily layered on my latest acquisition.
DAY 3
Tower of London
Much like the descriptions of the Life of a Showgirl, this place has glitter and grit — a combination of the Crown Jewels along with an unfettered look at the darker sides of British history. Although I have seen it before, I couldn’t resist one more visit to see the crowns with our group. It’s also a great excuse to walk along the river and up to Tower Bridge, some of my favorite people watching in London.
What I wore and why: I figured the jewels were as good a reason as any to pull out my King Charles III coronation scarf, bought at Westminster Abbey back in 2023 on my trip to cover the crowning. I built my outfit from there, with a new striped shirt from Xirena (the fit is perfect, just the right amount of volume), a navy trench I bought at Hobbs (again, cheaper across the pond!), and my trusty (and, all these years later, perfectly faded) black jeans from Madewell. This was the first time I wore my Meghan-approved Ariel Gordon studs and they were perfection. It was also the debut of my new J.Crew tassel loafers, which proved to be one of my favorite shoes of the trip. I love the fringe on the top and the slight lift of the block heel. (Black is almost sold-out but the deep red and brown suede are on sale.)
Cartier exhibit at the V&A
So grateful to return to London while so many exhibitions I hoped to see were still running! If you love jewels, the Cartier exhibition is for you — case after case of eye-popping pieces, many with royal ties.
The Indian tiara was acquired by Princess Marie Louise, the granddaughter of Queen Victoria, which she wore to the coronations of both George VI and Elizabeth II. Nearby is the Pineflower tiara, one of two from Cartier that George VI acquired early in his reign and now belongs to Princess Anne (the other, called the Halo tiara, is the one Catherine wore on her wedding day in 2011). There is also a collection, including a brooch, ring, necklace and bracelet, that belonged to the Duchess of Windsor, Wallis Simpson. Together with the Duke of Windsor (the former King Edward VIII), the exhibition label said Simpson worked with Cartier to build “one of the greatest jewellery collections of the 20th century.” Life in exile wasn’t too shabby…!
One of my favorite items in the exhibition is a letter dated Oct. 31, 1940, in which an assistant managing director wrote to King George VI to “beg respectfully” for permission to gift then-Princess Elizabeth with a small gold and diamond microphone charm to mark her first radio address. “We have the honour to remain, Sir,” the letter closes, “Your Majesty’s most obedient servants.”
What I wore and why: I had spent enough time in London at this point that I wanted to try the socks-with-loafers trend I had seen on many fashionable Brits. I began with an oversize button down from Uniqlo, added in these EXCELLENT wide-legged trousers from M.M. LaFleur and this fab bucket bag from Cuyana. My socks are Bombas and I think they are cute?? Most of Instagram liked the loafers better without — or suggested either a skirt or a different sock — which, fair! This attempt made me sock-curious, so I shall keep trying.
Wicked
As my family is counting down the days until the second feature-length film is released, I was extremely excited to see the London staging. It has been over a decade since I last saw Wicked on Broadway. Living in LA, we often get the traveling versions of a popular show but nothing compares to witnessing a successful, established, built-into-the-theater experience. The actors were incredibly talented; the sets and the costumes blew me away. Highly recommend! On the way out, I was quite certain I spotted the actor who plays Fiyero at the stage door (teen Elizabeth was known to do this when shows came to Chicago). Catherine in our group heard me say his name aloud and marched right up to him. He very graciously answered a few questions and posed for a few photos.
What I wore and why: Consider this the night The Coat met The Bodysuit. The Coat is the OG piece, picked up on a 2022 trip to the Royal Windsor Horse Show. So even though she is bulky and heavy, The Coat earned a spot in my suitcase on this trip. The Bodysuit, which I bought for my birthday party earlier this year, is the opposite — so easy to roll up and tuck in. The combo, with my wide-leg trousers from earlier, made for a perfect pairing at Wicked.
Day 4
Dress Codes royal fashion exhibition at Kensington Palace
Another must for me! I had been hearing great things about the latest royal fashion exhibition at Kensington Palace. The thrust of the display, which features 34 outfits dating back to the 1700s, is very affirming, personally. It’s further proof of the power of clothing: underscoring one’s place in society, revealing the conventions of culture and a means by which to express one’s own identity. There are little tidbits throughout, like how the Duke of Windsor preferred to wear his trousers with a belt like Americans instead of suspenders, more common with Brits. Diana’s scarlet red Jasper Conran suit, worn to the naming of a cruise liner, had buttons with anchors on them.
Afterwards, I encouraged everyone to stop by the Sunken Gardens and spend a moment with the Diana statue. The placement here will forever move me, the way in which visitors can appreciate her point of view from behind but only see Diana from the front at a distance.
From there, it was off to the Cotswolds…
What I wore and why: I know Kensington Palace has all sorts of royal ties, but for me it is synonymous with Diana. Consider this my nod to the People’s Princess! I love how she was willing to be “outrageous” (her word!) at times. A shirt dress felt suitably ladylike for a visit to Kensington Palace, but rendered in all-over animal print it felt like more of step forward. My 90s-esque chunky earrings were the perfect accessory, and a special one at that, gifted by Susan Caplan. The loafers and my slouchy camel coat rounded out the look.
Travel to the Cotswolds
And we were off! I was DELIGHTED at the idea of going to the Cotswolds, a picturesque place I have always wanted to visit. It’s just far enough outside of London (2-ish hours) that venturing there solo felt like a stretch. Atlas, to the rescue! We stopped for a snack and a bit of shopping at Stow-on-the-World before making our way to our home for the next three nights, Lygon Arms Broadway. Both the town and the accommodations were perfection, 10/10 recommend for anyone visiting the Cotswolds.
And I made a new friend! Courtney of Courtney Louise Photography. She lives in the Cotswolds and had such lovely ideas for pictures during our stay.
What I wore and why: This combination from Mille of a warm brown oversize corduroy coat and peachy-pink ruffle mock-neck turtle was too good not to try. (The coffee color has since sold out but the emerald and denim versions are in stock). All of my Cotswolds mood boarding leaned into autumnal hues and I loved these two colors together. Paired with my favorite cropped trouser jeans and another pair of loafers, it was the ideal stroll-around-town look. (Yes, I brought so many loafers but: I learned in my days covering fashion week that the key to avoiding blisters is to change up your footwear.)
DAY 5
Tour of the gardens and lunch at Highgrove
When we were brainstorming possibilities for the Cotswolds, Lucy from Atlas asked: Would I be interested in visiting Highgrove? WOULD I EVER. This was, far and away, my favorite outing of the trip.
It’s hard to believe that when then-Prince Charles purchased the estate in 1980, Highgrove was mostly an open field with a smattering of mature trees. Most of what is there now was planted, which is staggering considering how lush it feels.
The gardens are open at select times of the year for visitors. No photography is allowed, which turned out to be such a blessing. We were divided into two smaller groups and had the chance to put our phones away to just be…present. A gorgeous hour-plus of time to reflect in nature.
I had in my head something much more manicured and precious, signs saying “stay off the grass” even. That couldn’t be further from the reality. It was all quite wild and eclectic, a rambling series of vignettes. (The Highgrove Gardens Instagram account offers a great look here.) The spaces are dotted with sculptures that I understand are rotated around, per the king. We were invited to walk right up to the front of the residence (Charles and Camilla were not home). A mix of varied vines climbs from one corner at the bottom to the other at the top; our tour guide said that the greenery was meant to “soften” the rectangular stone exterior.
Afterward, we were served the most delicious, flavorful, farm-to-table lunch, complete with tea and dessert. It was just divine. Then it was off to the gift shop, where we all left our mark. The beautifully curated assortment was filled with treasures.
The visit gave me such a welcome new perspective on the monarch.
PS: Follow Courtney on Instagram, she photographs Highgrove quite often. :)
What I wore and why: I put a lot of thought into this one! I wanted something floral, or at the very least botanical, as a nod to the king and his love of plants. I stumbled across this Farm Rio blouse on a pre-trip mall run. The print and colors were very much what I had in mind, and the exaggerated shoulder was a welcome statement. I wasn’t sure what I would pair it with until I pulled these Madewell trousers from my closet, delighted at how the greens worked together. As much as I wanted to wear heels, flats made much more sense. The piece de resistance was an oversize bow by Jennifer Behr (I love it so much I just got it in red for the holidays). And, as a nod to the royal workhorse Princess Anne, I wore my vintage necklace from Susan Caplan, the same piece worn by an actor playing Charles’s sister on The Crown.
Movie night
How fun is this! The Atlas team arranged for a projector and bean bags to be brought to our hotel along with a catered meal of fantastic bites. I was invited to select the movie and realized, when considering the list of royal possibilities, how many are very sad and/or dark. Not the vibe! The King’s Speech to the rescue. I hadn’t watched this in years and loved revisiting Colin Firth as King George VI.
What I wore and why: Alas, there is always one misstep, isn’t there? I botched this one and that’s on me, as I forgot to pack a second pair of pajamas. (Related: The ones I did bring I love — highly recommend splurging on the washable silk set from Lunya. I have both the tank version and the traditional set.) Instead I put on this super soft chambray shirt and a sweatshirt, then at the last minute threw on jeans. When I walked into the room to find everyone wearing their VERY CUTE comfies, I felt immediately overdressed. I popped back to my room to throw on these knit pants. I had flown in them, which I didn’t love but was it better than jeans. And I delivered on the group request that we all wear our Susan Caplan pieces — five strands of vintage pearls make everything better.
DAY 6
Visit to Broadway Tower
Before our group adventure began, Courtney enthusiastically suggested we stop by this picturesque Cotswolds landmark. Built for the Sixth Earl of Coventry, the tower was finished in 1798. Originally intended as a “folly,” the tower became a workplace when it was acquired by a collector of printed books named Sir Thomas Phillipps. He set up a press in the tower, which earned it the nickname the “Lighthouse of Wisdom.” The viewing point at the top offers the highest vantage in the Cotswolds. We ducked in before it opened, so I was not able to experience that myself. But we beat the crowds, and had the place all to ourselves.
What I wore and why: This was my slideshow day! For the next stop — Highclere — I had gathered an assortment of separates that I was planning to piece together. This additional rendezvous, thanks to Courtney, gave me a chance to make not one but two looks from very similar pieces. My denim Madewell skirt and decade-plus-old J.Crew boots served as a fitting foundation, topped off by the pie-crust collar blouse from earlier in the trip and my beloved Barbour. This jacket looked right at home in her natural habitat.
Tour of Highclere Castle (aka the real life Downton Abbey)
We took a bit of a scenic route on our last morning, stopping in Bourton-on-the-Water shopping and an early lunch. It was the third Cotswolds town we visited, underscoring how each little enclave has its own vibe. Bourton is gorgeous, a bit bigger and more touristy than where we were staying. The bridges alone are worth a photo.
And then, it was off to Highclere. After last year’s Atlas trip, we asked folks what they would like to add to the itinerary? The filming location for Downton Abbey was the top choice. At the suggestion of someone on the bus, I connected my phone to the audio system to play the theme song as we pulled up the drive. I will admit, I had full body chills as we walked up the gravel path! An introduction outside gave us all a moment to take in the grand exterior. There were also warnings that the inside is often smaller than people realize. I found it suitably stately and delightfully familiar.
I will say I was not expecting the personal touches. Lord and Lady Carnarvon live in the castle when it is not open to the public (and in another “cottage” on the grounds when tours are happening). Their family photos are liberally added to most surfaces to hammer that point home.
The 90-minute tour is nothing if not thorough, winding through both the main floor — home to the grand staircase, dining room, and sitting room from Downton — as well as the bedrooms upstairs, with signs saying which room belonged to which character. The lower level is, sadly, not the same as the series (those were filmed on a set). Instead, there is an Egyptian exhibition. Our tour included a lovely meal of hearty bites, followed by a chance to explore the grounds and gardens.
What I wore and why: This was the second act of my aforementioned mix-and-match separates strategy (as tempting as it was to don a slinky Lady Mary gown, I resisted the urge). This chocolate brown skirt had both volume and weight to it, adding a bit of welcome formality I was after for Highclere, especially when paired with a denim vest and a deep brown blazer. A simple ivory turtleneck served as a cozy base, while my scarf from Highgrove infused a bit of color. If there is a signature shade in the Cotswolds, it is indisputably green.
Goodbye dinner at the Porch House
How is this the end! I marvel at the ways in which women can form connections in such a short time. The magic of Atlas, truly. Our final dinner at the Porch House in Stow was a delicious end to a very special week. All the inside jokes from the bus and late nights at the hotel bar resurfaced, laughing about “the finish” of the Windsor Castle wine or the very innocent question earlier in the trip wondering whether anyone had read Heir? (She meant Spare.) Alison’s daughter referring to me, in a very teenage tone, as a “minor celebrity” will never not be funny. My favorite part was the impromptu runway that popped up between our tables as well as the impressive Googling that happened after a tech bro tried to hit on our group.
Whitney gave a very touching speech and the girls from the trip gifted sweet Lucy a book for her arriving-any-moment baby (she supervised this trip whilst nearly 37 weeks pregnant! A star!). The group also very generously gave me two incredible pieces of royal memorabilia found in a charity shop: a program from George VI’s 1937 coronation and a book about Elizabeth II’s 1953 crowning. These have a place of pride on my coffee table at present, such perfect keepsakes from a very special trip.
What I wore and why: A few years ago, when William and Catherine visited Boston, I hosted a book signing and asked people to wear something fun from their closet that they hadn’t had a chance to wear in awhile. I used that same directive for this final outfit, a flouncy floral dress from the spring offering that felt appropriately autumnal in black and ivory. It’s just a very fun dress to wear! The same goes for an ivory blazer, which I picked up last holiday season (when, truth be told I thought the election was going a different way). Here’s to wearing the dress — and the blazer — and taking the trip!
See what I mean? This trip was GREAT. Take me back!
So many thanks to Whitney, Lucy, Yasmine, and the Atlas team for all of their work on our behalf. And to Victoria and Courtney for these amazing photographs.
If this looks like something you might enjoy, please let us know by filling out this Google form. (No obligation whatsoever!) And if you need a nudge, consider what this year’s travelers shared — much to be inspired by here. ⬇️
Thank you for this lovely recap of the trip as well as the backstory to all your marvelous outfits!
I love everything about this. From the different activities you did to the amount of effort you put into all your outfits. I love your style and for someone from LA, you fit into London and surrounding countryside perfectly. I need to come in your next trip. And I need to come shopping with you first to figure out what to wear!