A Travel Guide to Santa Barbara
Where to stay, dine, play, and shop in the Southern California enclave the Sussexes call home.
Welcome to So Many Thoughts, a semi-weekly newsletter about royal style and the other parts of life I want to think through with you. You can subscribe here and follow me on Instagram at @EHolmes. Thank you!
Hello! We traveled to Santa Barbara yesterday, our third visit in as many months. Two of my kids’ preschool friends were having a joint birthday party at the city’s beloved zoo, it was as delightful as everyone says! Our first day jaunt came on the heels of two overnight treks, first in August to visit friends and then again last month for Matt’s 40th birthday.
I have to lead with the “But Mostly” here: I can totally see why Meghan and Harry have chosen to make their home in this gorgeous corner of the world. Truly, a few hours in Santa Barbara and it makes so much sense — it’s the perfect, private respite. With the stunning Southern California coastline as a backdrop, the vibe is relaxed and elevated. Think: fancy fun without the fuss. What’s more, Santa Barbara is just far enough away from sprawling Los Angeles to feel like a true escape from the city, while still being close enough for a day trip. (For my New Yorkers, I’ve come to think of it as the Hamptons of LA.) 10/10, highly recommend!
My visits were planned with the help of my very good friend, Erin Geiger Smith. A Texan turned New Yorker, Erin spent the month of August there this year (hence our first visit) as well as last and has *the best* recommendations. I asked Erin to compile her faves into a travel guide, which you will find below, for my future SB travel and yours!
Do you have a favorite spot in Santa Barbara or neighboring Montecito? Hit “Join the discussion” at the bottom of this email to share in the comments of this newsletter.
ICYMI: Check out the SMT royal-inspired London travel guide, Part 1 is here and Part 2 is here.
So Many Thoughts on Santa Barbara
Before we get started, I asked Erin to introduce herself…
Introducing our Santa Barbara tour guide: Erin Geiger Smith (Photo by Ashley Himmel)
Hi! I’m Erin Geiger Smith, a reporter and the author of Thank You for Voting and its companion young readers’ edition. But, more relevant to this(!), I also spent years writing lifestyle stories for the Wall Street Journal, including on making the most of your last day of vacation. I’ve been lucky enough to spend the last two Augusts in Santa Barbara, California, enjoying its sunny, laid-back (if upscale) magic. I have an 8-year-old son, and my travel goals are always to maximize fun while making things as hassle-free as possible.
So Many Thoughts readers likely best know Santa Barbara, and neighboring Montecito, as the adopted home of an American duchess and her British prince. A caveat: If royal spotting is your goal, you’re likely to leave disappointed. The Sussexes live a very quiet and private life there. (I’ve also never bumped into my queen, Oprah, who also calls the exclusive enclave home.) But when people who can live anywhere in the world choose a particular place, it’s a major endorsement on visiting, right?
Santa Barbara is about 90 miles north of Los Angeles, nestled between the Santa Ynez Mountains and the Pacific Ocean. It’s often referred to as the “American Riviera” because the breathtaking scenery calls to mind the South of France. The architecture, especially downtown, is Spanish-inspired, giving it a unique feel even before you hit the beach. Spring, summer, and even fall are generally warm, though it does get cooler and rainier in the winter months. (“Cool” is an average high of 65 degrees in February, though.)
Here are my thoughts on where to stay, eat, play, and shop:
The view from the pool at El Encanto is breathtaking!
Stylish Stays
Santa Barbara is fairly small, with few drives taking more than 10-15 minutes. Many hotels are along the beachfront on either side of the Stearns Wharf pier. It’s the most tourist-filled part of Santa Barbara; in exchange for dealing with the crowds, you can walk to the beach and countless restaurants, many part of the the popular “Funk Zone,” and lower State Street area. Note that even bargain hotels can be expensive. (Nearby Goleta offers some lower-priced options if you’re willing to do some driving, and there are a range of bed and breakfasts, too.)
Motel 6. The original Motel 6, it’s located a two-minute walk from the beach and is a great budget option. (Note “budget” is used loosely here – the WSJ recently noted it’s the most expensive Motel 6 in the country. The recently upgraded rooms have a cheerful, boutique-feel.)
Hilton. Directly across from the beach, the Hilton is a kid-friendly choice. The blocks-long front yard front has foosball, a giant chess set, fire pits to make s’mores, and plenty of room for the little ones to run wild while parents enjoy a glass of wine. (EH note: This is where we stayed when we brought the kids! All of what Erin says is true! The sprawling property is great for kids who need to run and the rooms were surprisingly spacious.)
PaliHouse. If boutique and quiet — with décor you dream of emulating at home — is more your style, this is an A+ option. It’s located a few miles inland, but still walkable to everything downtown. It also boasts the perfect courtyard for a cocktail, even if you’re staying elsewhere.
El Encanto. Moving into the most luxurious options, this Belmond hotel is situated in the hills and has extensive gardens and stylish rooms with lots of woods and neutrals. Its views make immediately clear why the nickname “American Riviera” took hold. (EH note: This is where Matt and I stayed for his 40th birthday. IT WAS DREAMY. The rooms are little bungalows nestled in the hills, making it feel like a private, quiet escape. 10/10 recommend!)
Rosewood Miramar Beach. This Montecito resort is a no-expense-spared option. With its football field-sized lawn, a Goop outpost, outdoor Pelotons, separate adult and family pools, and beach-side service, it’s the luxury location currently favored by celebrities and influencers alike! (EH note: If you are a Kardashian fan, this is where Travis proposed to Kourtney. We had dinner here — more on that below — and I was struck by how big it is. It’s huge! If your kids love trains, the Amtrak line runs right through the property, too.)
Delightful Dining
Breakfast/Brunch:
Hook & Press. We are a donut family, and the extensive gourmet options at this pink-tiled downtown shop are some of our favorites anywhere. Don’t sleep on their breakfast sandwiches, either. (EH note: The outdoor tables are right near the town’s bright red phone booth!)
Renaud. A local favorite for French pastries, with multiple locations including Arlington Plaza in Santa Barbara and on the Old Coast Highway in Montecito. I dream of their almond croissants, and it’s a great lunch option, too.
The Shop. The perfect post-hike stop, with delicious egg dishes, a variety of toasts, and an amazing fried chicken sandwich among its healthy and less so options. This is very casual outdoor dining at its best.
Coffee, coffee, coffee: If your morning focus is a latte, great local options include Handlebar, Dune Coffee Roasters, and Café Luxxe (a LA chain, but close enough!).
Lunch and Dinner:
Bettina. Located in the Montecito Country Mart, this pizza and pasta restaurant has a perfect outdoor setting where a gentle breeze always seems to flow through. It’s one of those casually elegant places that is still great for kids. Reservations recommended. (EH note: Learn from my mistake! We tried to go early without a reservation and were politely turned away. The food looks incredible, so I will plan in advance next time.)
Santa Barbara Public Market. This downtown food court features local food and drink stalls varied enough to please the entire family. Corazon Cocina’s popularity is obvious by its (quick-moving) line, but sushi, falafel, pizza, and burgers are also available. (Two other options for quick and casual meals are Rudy’s, which is spot-on Mexican food, and the sandwich shop Panino; both have multiple locations.)
Broad Street Oyster Company. If a perfect lobster roll on a colorful patio that’s right off popular State Street but somehow feels like its own world is your vibe, this is the choice! (EH note: If you are driving up from LA, there is a Broad Street outpost in Malibu, too. We stopped there for a bite and some shopping en route, it was a lovely detour.)
The Lark. This chic spot servicing California-cuisine is probably Santa Barbara’s most “foodie” dining destination. It has abundant outdoor seating and a lively, fun atmosphere. (Open for lunch on weekends only.)
Brophy Bros. This favorite of both locals and tourists alike overlooks the harbor and serves classic seafood options. Expect a wait with your water view.
Shoreline Beach Café. A little further afield on Leadbetter Beach, you can sit on the patio or with your toes in the sand. The food is standard, but the sunset view is spectacular.
Caruso’s. For a celebratory meal and the prices to match, the luxury hotels all have great options; Caruso’s is the Rosewood’s, which offers a seafood-heavy tasting menu and a spectacular view of the water. A bonus to our sunset dinner there: a pod of dolphins and a shooting star! (EH note: This is where we went for Matt’s birthday dinner! It was lovely, the leisurely pace made it extra special. Ask for wine pairing recommendations from the sommelier. Also, pro tip: Check ahead of time what time the sun will set and book a table for about 45-60 before. Even if it means eating early, I promise it will be worth it.)
Ice cream: Santa Barbara has two wonderful local options, both with multiple locations. McConnell’s has served Santa Barbara since 1949. My personal favorite is Rori’s – try the peanut butter chocolate candy swirl.
If you are a person who prefers to wander around looking at options, there are many great restaurants and dessert possibilities in one stretch along the Old Coast Highway in Montecito. Strolling the sidewalks is a favorite past-time of tourists and locals alike.
A casual stroll on Butterfly Beach. 😉
So Much to See (Sea!)
The best things to see and do in Santa Barbara are free: the beaches and hiking.
Beaches: A Southern California must! The most convenient beaches are those on either side of the pier downtown. They are wide, often with minimal waves. If you want to venture a bit further along the coast, the smaller Butterfly Beach in Montecito is lovely, and parking along palm tree-lined Channel Drive is easy and convenient. (Very important: Check the tides before visiting the Montecito beaches. At high tide the waves can cover the beach!)
Hiking: There are hikes for all ages, fitness levels and experience, and most come with jaw-dropping views of the ocean.
Inspiration Point is a popular choice because of its proximity to town and breathtaking view of all of Santa Barbara from the top.
I couldn’t get enough of the various trails in the Montecito trail system; the one to San Ysidro Creek was my favorite. (I use the AllTrails app for navigation and to help know what I’m getting into!)
Mesa Steps My top suggestion might be to grab your pastry of choice and head here. The 227 steps (according to my son’s count!) to the beach are a workout, but the views and the chance to watch the surfers make it worth it.
On the water: Kayaks, paddleboards, and jet skis are available to rent near West Beach, either on your own or with a guide. For my mom’s birthday this year, we rented a small boat to go out at sunset. It was reasonably priced, we brought our own wine and cheese, and my mom’s smile was a trip highlight!
Erin and her family on the aforementioned boat. Making this a must-do for our next summer trip!
Old Mission Santa Barbara. The city’s most famous landmark, it was established in 1786 and is still home to Franciscan Friars. Across from it is a spectacular rose garden.
Santa Barbara County Courthouse. Surely one of the most beautiful courthouses in the country, don’t miss walking through the giant archway to its massive yard to admire the Spanish-Colonial building. Tours are available for inside as well. (If you’re around in the summer, try to catch a free movie in the sunken garden.)
Flora and Fauna. Lotusland in Montecito is a formerly private garden that actually consists of more than a dozen styles of gardens, from a Japanese garden to meticulously maintained topiary. If you enjoy botanic gardens, it should be on your bucket list. Reservations required! The less expensive and extremely lovely Santa Barbara Botanic Garden is also an excellent option.
Chic Shopping:
Montecito Country Mart. To bring home some of the California-chic vibe, head straight to the Mart, home to mini-chain Clic, a pop-up shop for stripe-friendly Kule, and Montecito Mercantile, among other clothes, beauty, and housewares stores. (EH note: My personal fave! The boutiques are small and intimate, a very curated selection.)
Surf N Wear Beach House. Let’s say your kids find the chill of the Pacific a little too chilly … this is a friendly, one-stop shop for wetsuits, boogie boards, and all other beach gear.
Jake & Jones. The most fashion-forward clothes shop in Santa Barbara, with an excellent (if pricey) kids section as well. Think a polka-dot Batsheva blouse for mom and Bobo Choses tee for the baby. Stylish dads will be very happy, too.
William Laman. If you’d like to browse the super-chic and expertly curated kind of furniture, antiques, and accessories Montecito residents prefer, don’t miss William Laman. It’s located in the heart of Montecito Village near multiple other gorgeous, high-end shops. (I love bringing glassware home for a daily reminder of a great trip.)
Shopping areas: The main drag in Montecito, along the Old Coast Highway, also has great clothes and home shopping, as does Arlington Plaza and Lower State Street in Santa Barbara.
Bird and her brothers loved feeding the giraffes at the Santa Barbara Zoo.
For the Kids:
Santa Barbara is a very kid-friendly town, and my 8-year-old joined me for most of the above! But a few things are both specifically for the little ones and totally worth doing.
Santa Barbara Zoo. Located right in town, and my son still talks about one monkey’s gymnastic performance. Book in advance! (EH note: My kids loved feeding the giraffes! Also, the mom who was hosting the birthday party we went to described the zoo as “a park with animals” — which rings true to me. I think we spent the most time at the playground with the big grassy hill you can slide down.)
Surrey rentals. I was skeptical of the yellow-canopied “surreys” you can ride along the beachside path on Cabrillo Blvd. But it was so very fun and the kids loved it. I could hear Elizabeth laughing from her family’s surrey, and we were doing the same in ours. An hour well spent!
Kid’s World playground. Santa Barbara has many spectacular playgrounds; our favorite is Kid’s World in Alameda Park, surrounded by giant trees with a playscape that looks like it grew directly from them. A nearby garden has a small pond for turtle spotting.
There you go … eat, drink, swim, hike, repeat. Enjoy!
My thanks to Erin. 💗 Do you have a favorite spot in Santa Barbara or Montecito? Please hit “Join the discussion” at the bottom of this email and share in the comments of this newsletter. You can also send me an email at Hello@SoManyThoughts.com.
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(Header photo by Mitch Diamond / Getty Images)